Swap Guides

Swap Q&A

Q: What is a swap meet?
A: A swap meet is a public gathering of people who breed birds, livestock, and game animals and their related equipment, and people who want to buy said animals and equipment.

Q: Do I have to be a member to come to swaps?
A: You do not! There is no fee for browsers or buyers, and the public is welcome. There is a fee for sellers, but the fee for sellers who are members is cheaper.

Q: What kinds of birds can be found at swap meets?
A: A large portion of the birds brought are poultry (chickens, ducks, geese, turkeys, quail, pheasants, partridge, peafowl, etc) or pigeons, but there are often companion birds like finches, canaries, parakeets/cockatiels, diamond doves, and more! There are also, on rarer occasion, larger birds like swans and ratites, and larger parrots.

Q: What kind of livestock can be found at swap meets?
A: Typically we see a lot of rabbits and goats, though the occasional pony, pig, donkey, calf, alpaca, llama, etc isn't unusual! We've even seen a camel once!

Q: What kind of game animals can be found at swap meets?
A: Legally held game animals typically include native birds like bobwhite quail and ringneck pheasants, but other legally held game animals (and their parts, like fur, bones, teeth, etc) are allowed as well.

Q: Can we bring any kind of animal?
A: We prefer to keep it to birds, game animals, and livestock, and all animals must be legal to own, but the only animal expressly against our rules is dogs. The only animals we DO NOT allow are dogs. There are no dogs or dog sales at these swaps, for the protection and safety of the game birds, who can severely injure themselves out of fear of dogs. It is inadvisable to bring animals that don't fall under the bird, game, or livestock umbrella, such as reptiles/amphibians, inverts, fish, etc, as you are unlikely to find buyers and the sale grounds are not hospitable to animals that are not bird, game, or livestock animals.

Q: Why are the animals in small cages?
A: These are transport cages, much the same as when someone takes a cat to the vet. Some cages may seem especially small (for example, peafowl caging is often very snug), but may be for an animal's safety (for example, when given space, peafowl are capable of flushing so hard and fast they can break their own bones, or severely injure their faces). If you have a direct concern about an individual animal's welfare, please find us at the MBGBA booth to bring it to our attention!

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Buyer's Guide

This section is to help buyers understand what to expect and how to interact at swap meets.

• If you plan to buy animals, please ensure that you have proper containment/transport available. Cat and dog carriers and crates work well. Cardboard boxes can work well for smaller animals, but may be broken by larger ones. For example, a quail or a chicken would be fine in a cardboard box, but a turkey or goat is probably not.
• Most sellers only take cash, and there's rarely anywhere nearby to withdraw cash from. Please be prepared for this. Even sellers than can/do take electronic payments may not have service at some of the swaps, as they are often in remote locations.
• While it's perfectly acceptable and encouraged to converse with sellers, even without an intent to buy, it is polite to stand to the side of their display, to allow others to browse while you chat.
• Haggling is a time-honored tradition at swap meets, but be aware that not all prices are negotiable (particularly on rare species or high quality animals), and very lowball offers (especially at the start of the swap) may be considered rude. Many sellers are willing to offer deals on multiple animals vs single animals.
• Once animals are purchased, please allow the seller to handle the animals to put them into your transport cage, unless you have asked in advance. This lessens the chance of escapees.
• The best time to arrive if you're looking to purchase uncommon, good quality, or very cheap animals is right at the start of the swap (6am), as these things often go quickly once folks arrive.
• Although the swap goes until noon or later, sellers may choose to leave early, in order to take their remaining animals home for the benefit of the animals, so they are not caged up once it starts getting hot out. You may still be able to make deals on animals a seller does not want to take home.
• Please be prepared to quarantine all new animals purchased at a swap meet. While we expect sellers to bring healthy, parasite-free animals, we have no way to verify this on site beyond obvious physical signs. Proper quarantine means 30 days completely separate from your current animals, followed by 2 weeks where one of your current animals can interact with the newbies. The first part should tell you if the new animal is sick or has parasites, the second part should tell you if you flock has something already that will harm new birds. A vet check is never a bad idea before introducing new animals to old ones.
• If a conflict arises with a seller, please visit the MBGBA booth at any swap and bring it to our attention rather than attempting to settle it yourself. You may also come see us with questions or suggestions!

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Seller's Guide

This section is to help seller's understand what to expect and how to conduct themselves.

• Sellers should have all animals in adequate caging that both contains and protects the animals.
• Caging and animals should not be unduly dirty. Please bring extra bedding for any non-wire-bottom caging, so you can freshen where the animals are standing as needed.
• Animals should have access to hydration at all times during the swap, and food except those animals fed on a schedule.
• All animals should appear to be free from illness and significant injury. Sellers may be asked to remove obviously ill or significantly injured animals from their booth. Sellers repeatedly bringing sick or significantly injured animals to swaps may be barred from returning.
• Sometimes, animals escape being held. If you have a net or other quick-capture device you can bring, we suggest you have it on hand just in case.
• Please bear in mind that not all buyers will have transport cages (perhaps they forgot, or perhaps you were a lovely salesperson and convinced them of an animal they didn't know they wanted!). If you have the ability to bring an extra box or two that can suit your animals, doing so may help you make a sale.
• Where possible, please label your animals with what they are, and their price (tags, poster, paper sheet, etc). This helps buyers (especially new ones) get an idea of general pricing, as sometimes newer folks may think animals are out of their price range, or that animals are way cheaper than they are. It helps new and old folks alike identify species they haven't seen before, and it will also save you time answering the same question 27 times.
• If possible, having a sheet or other display with your contact information on it will help buyers to find you again after the swap. Tip: you can have people take photos of contact info so you don't have to have multiple copies! If you are a member of the MBGBA, your contact information will also be available on the MBGBA breeder directory!
• Please give the breeders to either side of you enough space between your displays, so that buyers can easily tell where one booth ends and another begins. This helps to avoid confusion about whose animals are whose, and who to pay. Leaving space between displays can also help cut down on disease and parasite transfer. We hope that everyone brings healthy, parasite-free animals, but accidents happen, and it never hurts to be a little proactive.
• The swaps open at 6am; for the best chance at selling, please try to arrive at or before 6am, so as to be set up when the first people arrive.
• The swaps go until noon. Please expect to stay until then, or until you have sold all of your animals (yay).
• If you have a conflict with a buyer or other seller, please bring it to our attention at the MBGBA booth, rather than try to settle it yourselves. This also goes for if you have questions or suggestions for us!